Archive for July, 2008

Climbing Times

Wednesday, July 30th, 2008

FYI,

You are all invited to come climbing. I go Weds and Friday after work around 6ish. Then I go again on Sunday sometime around 3-4ish. It just depends on what is going on. Sooner rather then later Sunday’s will be replaced with outdoor climbing day and I’m hoping some of you will be interested.
If you aren’t sure how to get to AZR check out Az on the rocks site.

Also I broke down and got the Canon FS100. This should help make the recording look much better.

Rock Climbing Rating Systems

Monday, July 28th, 2008

Since I realized few people understand what a V2 or a V0+ bouldering or a 5.10 Top Roping really means I figured I should add some information to fill in blanks.

Wiki Article on Rock Climbing It has some interesting articles attached to it.
Wiki Article on Climbing Ratings Systems



Rock Climbing Rating Systems
YDS
(USA)
British
(UK)
Tech/Adj
French Vermin
(Bouldering)
UIAA
(Central
Europe)
Ewbank (Australian & NZ) Eastern Germany
(Central
Europe)
Finnish Norwegian Brazilian South African
5.2 1 I I Isup 8
5.3 2 II 11 II II 10
5.4 3 III 12 III 3 IIsup 11
5.5 4a VD 4 IV 12 IV 4 III 12
5.6 S 5a V? 13 V 5? 5? IIIsup 13
5.7 4b HS 5b V 14 VI 5 5 IV 14
4c V+ 15 15
5.8 VS 5c VI? 16 VIIa 5+ 5+ IVsup 16
5.9 5a HVS 6a VI 17 VIIb 6? V 17
5.10a E1 6a+ V0 VI+ 18 VIIc 6? 6?/6 VI 18
5.10b 5b 19 VI/VI+ 19
5.10c E2 6b V1 VII? 20 VIIIa 6 6 VIsup/VI+ 20
5.10d 5c 6b+ VII 21 VIIIb 6+ VIsup 21
5.11a E3 6c V2 VII+ 22 VIIIc 6+ 7? 7a 22
5.11b 6c+ 23 7 7b 23
5.11c 6a E4 7a V3 VIII? 24 IXa 7? 7+ 7c 24
5.11d 7a+ VIII IXb 7+/8- 8a 25
5.12a E5 7b V4 VIII+ 25 IXc 7+ 8? 8b 26
5.12b 6b 7b+ 26 8? 8 8c
5.12c E6 7c V5 IX? 27 Xa 8 8/8+ 9a 27
5.12d 6c 7c+ V6 IX 28 Xb 8+ 8+ 9b 28
5.13a E7 V7 IX+ 29 Xc 9? 9? 9c 29
5.13b 8a V8 9 30
5.13c 7a 8a+ V9 X? 30 9+ 9?/9 10a 31
5.13d E8 8b V10 X 31 10? 9 10b 32
5.14a 8b+ V11 X+ 32 10 9/9+ 10c 33
5.14b 7b 8c V12 33 10+ 9+ 11a 34
5.14c E9 8c+ V13 XI? 34 11? 10? 11b 35
5.14d 7c 9a V14 XI 35 11 10 11c 36
5.15a 9a+ V15 12a 37

AZR Gym - First Climbing Videos

Monday, July 28th, 2008

I took this video with my Cannon SD630 Digital Camera. It’s not the greatest quality but this should give an idea as to how the AZR routes look. I think I’m going to need to get a better camera for this stuff.

This is a pretty mean V2 at the gym. There are two big slopers that make you take your time with this problem.

This is a V0+ that is, from what I’m told more typical of the outdoor bouldering problems.

This is another V2, it rolls through an under hang and is pretty fun. I just slapped the top and came right off. There isn’t much of a grip at the top of this route….

This is a fun V1 at the gym. I do it for warm up.

SideNote:
Grats on your first V1 Mike.

The things you hear

Thursday, July 17th, 2008

Today was climbing with my Bro. We weren’t really into bouldering so we did it for about an hour then top roped for 3 more. It was good because he is getting solid at many of the basics an I am finally starting to get decent at some of the really pinchy and crimpy climbing.

The thing that struck me as amusing today as we were climbing was what people will say to try and get someone up the wall. They will yell the worst directions ever. It would be utterly confusing to any climber who didn’t know the route and was just having trouble. It’s also amusing to hear what newbies say as they are coming down off the wall after bailing out.

“I can stand on my feet but I just can’t do it on the wall”
“If I can climb a ladder I can climb this wall” *falls off after 3 holds*

Sometime next week I will hopefully be getting some video’s and pictures together and loading them up here for a bunch of climbing examples.

Climbing is all about Energy Conservation

Thursday, July 17th, 2008

What people fail to realize is that the key to climbing is Energy Conservation. I’ll say that again because it bares repeating, The Key To Climbing is Energy Conservation. If you are burning yours arms out because you are not using your feet to lift your weight, guess what, you are going to get gassed and come off the wall. Learning how to conserve energy is the most important and most difficult thing you will ever learn while climbing. Figuring out every way to conserve energy you can should be your primary goal.

With that said here are a few pointers to think about as you climb more and more, believe me I think about them constantly and soon enough you just make them habit because everything else seems silly.

#1. Climb like a monkey
I know it seems silly to hear this and I’m sure it needs some explanation but, you really do want to climb like a monkey. Hang from your arms. Don’t constantly pull yourself close to the wall. You are going to burn your forearms and grip out in no time.

#2 Move a Hand, Move a Foot
As you are climbing pretty much every route will be configured in such a way that you should be able to move a hand then move a foot. Don’t get stretched out. If you get too far stretched out you are going to suffer as all your moves are going to take WAY more energy then you want them to.

#3 Move your weight up the wall in a pendulum motion
Don’t try to plow up the wall like your climbing a ladder. You are going to end up fighting the holds as you just force your way up the wall. Learn to shift your weight to a side, move your foot or hand away from your center of gravity then shift your center of gravity to the new position. It is going to be much easier by adding a little cross body zig and zag then to just try to stretch out and pull yourself up.

How it all started

Wednesday, July 16th, 2008

December 2007, my friends James and Andy introduced me to climbing. I had recently been running about 20 miles a week. As soon as I started climbing I was hooked. I stopped running and started climbing 3 times a week then after a few months I added a day of Yoga into the mix.

I climb at Az on the Rocks. It is an excellent gym with a solid amount of bouldering, top roping, lead climbing, 2 cracks, a chimney and a reverse chimney and some slab climbing. The people at this gym are awesome. Everyone is approachable and wants you to succeed and grow as a climber. Over time I managed to get my roommate and brother into climbing as well as a few friends and now all 8 of us get together at least once a week or so to climb.

The purpose of this blog is to give people a place to follow our climbing experiences as well as document our climbing experiences. I have plans of getting lead certified and getting into the swing of things before things cool down here in Arizona. Then I shall begin my forays out into the wilds of Arizona outdoor climbing.